Hi Everyone,
Sorry it has been so long since we posted. We have either not had access to the internet or the connection was too antiquated to access Blogger!
We are in Burgos tonight. As with past posts, we will do our best to add photos but uploading takes a lot of time so we are posting this message first.
The last I wrote we were staying in Viana and Tom had pulled a muscle in his back trying to pull a wine cork with the cork screw on our Swiss Army knife. We thought he was doing better, but he reinjured his back at our albergue in Viana. It had three teir bunks and getting into the middle bunk turned out to be an acrobatic act. To make matters worse, we purchased some ibuprofen at a Farmicia and got these huge 600 mg pills. They helped with the back pain but really upset Tom´s stomach. The long and short of it is that we slowed down a bit and today was the first day Tom has felt 100%. I am really glad to have him back up to snuff!
Despite Tom´s back and upset stomach, we have been having a great time. After Viana we stayed at a wonderful albergue in Navarette -- clean comfy and quiet. We also went to mass at the church there and had a real treat. The preist did a pilgrim blessing at the end of the service. Then he invited us all to the sacristy and showed us all of the treasure of the church ( which were many). The church itself was incredible -- it had a huge gilt altarpeice -- larger than most we had seen and also had some beautiful art and treasures.
The next day was the worst for Tom so we made it short and stopped in Najera. There we stayed in a very nice hotel. This allowed Tom to rest and soak his back in a nice bath tub. The hotel was nice and the rest was also good for Tom.
From Najera we walked to Santo Domingo de Calzada. This was another delightful small town and I had a fun experience here. I needed to go to the Farmacia to get sun screen (yes, the weather has really warmed up!). The hospitaliero (the albergue worker) asked his friend to show me the way. They guy spoke no english but we managed to communicate and he walked me to the store. I got my sun screen and lo and behold, the guy had waited for me. He asked if I wanted to go get a cup of cafe con leche (yum) and although I was sùrprised, I couldn´t forgo the treat so off we walked. After coffee at the local bar and hangout (at which I was introduced to all the patrons), he walked me around town explaining what a great place it was and how much better small towns were than big cities. Eventually he walked me back to the albergue. I think he was flirting a bit but it was really fun to get the personal tour! Tom was jealous. We also enjoyed a fabulous community meal with friends from Canada, France & Germany.
From Santo Domingo we headed to Belorado. It was a spectacular, warm day and we had a great walk. Tom was starting to return to himself also. In Belorado, we stayed in a small private albergue run by a very friendly guy from Brazil, Fernando, who was almost certainly gay. He was funny and warm. We ate dinner at the restaurant at the albergue with folks from South Africa. We also go the best night of sleep we have had.
The next day also dawned sunny and warm. We walked to San Juan de Ortega, where we stayed in an albergue that was part of a monestery. The town had a population of about 20 and was out in the middle of nowhere. It has had an albergue for hundreds of years. Again we had a community meal, this time with friends from France and Germany. We tried a new food too -- mocilla -- blood sausage. Yum! Who knew?
Today we walked to Burgos where we have visited the cathedral and are getting ready to go to dinner.
Tom commented this morning that he felt like he did when we were first married -- no worries, no responsibilities. We just get up in the morning and walk. We eat when we want, and stop when we are tired. It is so relaxing and freeing. We also have been so lucky that we have not suffered from blisters or other foot problems so we are not sore or overly tired.
Also there is something incredibly communal and levelling about the Camino. All we have is on our back. Everyone is in the same boat. We don´t walk with any of the trappings of status or jobs. And everyday we meet and talk to new people.
We will write again when we can and we will add pictures to this post as soon as possible.
Buen Camino,
Liz
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